Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, your trusted source for quality woodworking machines and power tools. Whether you’re just getting started or looking for your next upgrade, they’ll help you find the right tools to power your woodworking.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show and get the ad-free version at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

This week, we thank:

• Ben Dadover

• Dick Knotts

• Phil McCracken

Sign up for the Wood Talk Newsletter.

What’s on the Bench

• Marc started messing with Gridfinity and is wondering whether that was a mistake.

• Matt is between things.

• Shannon shellacked his chest, and now the girls all swoon.

Kickback

• Alexander Hähnsen asks whether the best Wood Talk listening experience is to keep working backward from newer episodes or go all the way back to episode 1.

• Kyler Goodwin and Dave suggest using an ozone generator to help remove the odor from Shannon’s chest of drawers, with the warning that ozone needs to be used carefully because it is harmful to breathe.

Questions

• Brandon asks how to find a woodworking mentor, how to avoid asking for too much unpaid time, what a developing woodworker can offer in return, and what a healthy mentoring relationship looks like.

• Josh asks how to turn split, wedge-shaped oak log sections into straight boards when there’s no flat reference edge and no way to get the logs to a sawmill.

• John asks whether old Wood Talk episodes are still available and whether round bench dog holes for a Benchcrafted tail vise should be drilled at a 2-degree angle.

Links and Resources

• Woodcraft

• Wood Talk Newsletter

• Kreg Edge early access through Woodcraft

Local Woodcraft Events and Classes

• Cincinnati: Intro to Scroll Saw workshop, Thursday, August 20.

• Washington, DC-area Woodcraft: Date Night, Friday, August 21.

• Harrisburg: Free Easy Wood Tools demo with Dave Schell, Saturday, August 22.

• Columbus: Fall meeting of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers, August 22 and 23.

• Seattle: 8th Annual Tool Swap, Saturday, August 29.

• Store Classes and Events: Check your local Woodcraft store at Woodcraft.com.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

When I went to reattach the boards, I realized that a few were missing. Finding replacement boards wasn’t a problem but matching the finish was. Apparently 2004 Marc wasn’t thinking ahead and documenting his finishing recipes for future Marc. 2004 Marc did lots of questionable things as you can see below.

So I had think back to that time in my woodworking journey to see if I could remember what kind of finish and stain I may have used. I know for sure I was watching a lot of Woodworks and The New Yankee Workshop. David Marks used a lot of Arm-R-Seal, basically a wiping varnish, while Norm often used shellac and polyurethane. So there’s a good chance I used shellac as a base coat followed by wiping poly for more protection, but the bigger question was the color. The bookcase has that orange/amber tone pine can develop with age but the color is way too intense to be natural. And when I look at the back boards I can see colored drips, indicating a staining product of some kind was used. I know I wasn’t really into oil-based stains at the time and I do recall having a pretty spiffy collection of dyes at my disposal. So my best educated guess was that I used dye in shellac as a stain coat, followed by a wiping varnish topcoat.

It’s important to consider that time also complicates color matching. This finish is more than 20 years old and even if I had the exact recipe, there’s no guarantee that it would match the current appearance of the finish. Thankfully, my mother-in-law isn’t all that picky. As long as I get close enough, it’ll be good enough. So I grabbed some scrap, a can of Zinsser shellac, and a few TransTint dyes. Shellac alone was clearly too blonde. So I put in a few drops of Vintage Maple dye. That warmed things up but the color still lacked the brown punch of the original so I added some brown. It took about four rounds dropping and testing but the final result looks close enough. As my stepdad used to say, “You’ll never notice it riding a horse at 50 mph down Broad Street” I still don’t know what he meant but it somehow seems to apply here.

During this color creation exercise, I realized something: I’m rusty! I haven’t done color matching in ages, and I probably haven’t used shellac in more than ten years. That brought to mind a very scary question: do woodworkers need traditional finishing skills anymore?

I Used to Do This Stuff All the Time

Before The Wood Whisperer became my regular gig, I got a job working part-time at a small refinishing shop in Phoenix. While I certainly had a good deal of woodworking skills at the time, my finishing experience fell short. At that point in my career, I had yet to touch a spray gun, lacquer terrified me, and I knew more about food dye than wood dye. The owner, Cody, taught me about topcoats, HVLP, repairs, color matching, toners, and all the small details required to make old work look new and new work match old work.

This was all super interesting, but the thing that really tickled my cheese was the chemistry. My degree is in biology and I have a minor in chemistry, so I naturally wanted to know why finishes worked the way they did, not just how to apply them. Understanding things like cross-linking, oxidation, and solvent evaporation helped explain differences in curing, hardness, durability, and repairability. But chemistry only gets you so far. Finishing also requires judgment. It truly is an intersection of chemistry, art, and patience.

After about a year, things really started to pick up on The Wood Whisperer side of things so I had to move on. But I’ll always be thankful to Cody for teaching me and inspiring me to take finishing a lot more seriously. I eventually went on to share much of what I had learned through my videos and my book, Finishing: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over.

Back then, I used those skills regularly. Today? Not so much. And I don’t think I’m alone.

Finishing Used to Be a Craft Within the Craft

When my finishing book came out in 2011, I asked the late Charles Neil to write the forward. He called finishing “an art unto itself” and he argued that it deserved the same attention we give wood selection and joinery. Like any other part of woodworking, getting good at finishing takes practice. A skilled finisher knows how to prep a surface, how different species of wood respond to color, the difference between dyes and pigments, how to control blotching, how to build color with toners, how to rub out a finish to a desired sheen, and perhaps most importantly, they know how to fix the situation when everything goes sideways.

So here I was, in my shop with a 22 year old finish as a visual reference and nothing but my memory to go on. But I had some scrap wood and a cabinet full of finishing products. Solving this problem was well within my wheelhouse. Granted, this is a tame example and not an extremely challenging situation, but problems like these are why finishing has long been a specialty of its own. In fact, some woodworkers don’t actually finish their own projects. Fine Woodworking has an article about when it makes sense to outsource finishing, especially when a job calls for difficult color work or experience the builder doesn’t have. Well-respected woodworkers I know personally, including Tommy Mac and Darrell Peart, have outsourced finishing for much of their careers.

We don’t assume a great furniture maker will also be a great upholsterer, metalworker, or glassmaker. Why should finishing be different? And while you don’t need to be an absolute expert to finish your own work, it still takes knowledge, judgment, and practice. At least it used to.

Then Finishing Got Easier

Sometime within the last 10 years, hardwax oils became a major part of the online woodworking world. They had been around for years, especially in Europe, but suddenly Rubio Monocoat was showing up everywhere in videos…usually about slab tables. That’s actually what prompted me to make a video about applying Rubio on smaller furniture projects. And soon there were new brands popping up left and right. Recently, even companies that were already well established with woodworkers, such as General Finishes, have entered the category with their own hardwax oil. Eventually there were enough brand options that I felt compelled to make a hardwax-oil comparison video in hopes of making sense of it all. Whatever else you think about them, hardwax oils are now firmly mainstream.

I have to laugh because I initially dismissed them. I recall Rubio sending me a sample ages ago and I didn’t think much of it. It just seemed like an expensive version of something we could make ourselves by mixing classic oil and wax. But that was a big misunderstanding on my part and totally undersells what these finishes do and how they work. The chemistry varies by product but Rubio says Oil Plus 2C bonds at the molecular level with the uppermost wood fibers, eliminating the need for multiple coats. Osmo takes a different approach, combining penetrating oils and waxes to create a thin protective layer.

While this was all very interesting technology, it was the practical results that made me a convert. These products use very little material. They don’t require building a substantial film. They dry quickly and cure within about a week. And the application process couldn’t be simpler. Spread it thin, buff it in, let it soak, wipe it off, then buff dry. No four to five coat week-long process. No sanding between coats. No fighting dust nibs and streaks. No overspray. And in most cases, nothing stinking up the shop.

Hardwax oils also arrived at the right time with regard to trends. For quite a while now, people have been leaning toward wood that looks and feels like real wood. Gone are the days of heavy build finishes that look like plastic or glass. Satin and matte are the sheens du jour and people just can’t get enough of that natural wood texture. However, if everyone suddenly decides piano-gloss finishes are back in style, hardwax oils are pretty much screwed. But for now, low luster is where it’s at so the limited sheen range isn’t much of a concern.

Hardwax oils are also easy to repair. You can often sand the affected area, apply more finish, buff it off, and no one will be the wiser. Easy peasy. You can’t do that with most traditional film finishes.

Most importantly, hardwax oils have lowered the skill required to get good results. In the past, you could often spot an inexperienced woodworker by their finish. Brush marks, drips, blotchy stain, and enough polyurethane to make the table look like it had been dipped in plastic. I’ve judged competitions where a project looked great from a few feet away but felt like 80-grit sandpaper when you touched it. No bueno! Today, someone can be on their first furniture project, wipe on some hardwax oil, and get a clean natural-looking finish. That’s a good thing! Hardwax oils have essentially democratized finishing.

Technique Focus vs Product Focus

Something else changed along the way. Just look at finishing discussions on YouTube, Instagram, or Reddit and many of the questions are purely focused on brands. “Should I use Rubio or Osmo?” “Is Natura any good?” “How do these compare Odies?” I get it. People like me are part of the reason these products are discussed so often. We use them, we test them, and we talk about them frequently. But it’s a bit troubling to me that the conversation has shifted so dramatically from techniques and various finishing systems towards individual products. Instead of asking, “What combination of color, protection, and sheen does this project need?” we often start with, “Which hardwax oil should I buy?” as if the type of finish itself is a forgone conclusion.

That’s really not a good thing. Hardwax oils generally don’t provide the same film build or abrasion protection as traditional film finishes, and most are firmly in the matte/satin range. When someone wants more protection or a different appearance, the go-to option today is to apply an additional (expensive) ceramic coating on top. Now there’s really nothing wrong with that. I have used these ceramic topcoats myself. But think about what has happened here. We’ve taken a finish, prized for its simplicity and ease of use, and started adding products to compensate for what it doesn’t do well. Meanwhile, older finishing systems may already provide the protection and sheen we want, often for much less money.

Traditional finishes also give you far more ways to solve specific problems. Need to shift color without obscuring the grain? Try dye stain. Need two boards to look more alike? Try toner, gel stain, or a homemade pigmented stain. Blotchy wood? Use Marc Juice. Want a specific sheen? Fill the pores, build a film, and rub it out. Simply put, traditional finishes give you infinite options. Hardwax oils are a little more “you can have any flavor you want, as long as it’s vanilla.” Granted, vanilla is pretty damn popular right now and happens to delicious. But you’re still working within a fairly narrow range of low-build, natural-looking, matte/satin finishes. If that’s the result you want, great. If not, you’ll need to either start adding other costly products to your collection or do a little research into the wonderful world of other finishing systems.

The Durability Question

One of the main hallmarks of hardwax oil is how easy it is to repair. But don’t confuse repairability with durability. A thin, close-to-the-wood finish is very different from a film designed to act as a protective layer on top of the wood. One of the things you’ll hear folks say about hardwax oils is “If they’re durable enough for floors, they’re durable enough for furniture!” Unfortunately, that’s a bit misleading. Yes, of course hardwax oils can be used on floors. In fact, I used Osmo on my own kitchen floor and I can speak first hand about the durability. But since most floors are made from incredibly hard woods like oak, maple, and hickory, the lion share of the durability comes from the wood itself. All the finish really needs to do is prevent liquid penetration and staining. Hardwax oils can do at least that much and the wood fibers do the rest. I have two kids and two dogs, and my hardwax oil floor still looks pretty good after a year with zero maintenance. It has a lot more scuffs and scratches than a film finish would, but the matte appearance helps hide those blemishes and when I’m ready to do a refresh, the floor will once again look new.

And that’s really where the tradeoff is: maintenance. A film finish may resist wear longer but hardwax oil is easier to deal with when wear eventually occurs. A homeowner can easily DIY a repair on a floor finished with hardwax oil, not so much with a traditional finish. The same concept applies to furniture.

There’s another advantage for hardwax oils: many contain little or no VOCs. Natura Onecoat is sold as VOC and solvent-free. That makes it far more pleasant to use and it won’t off-gas noxious odors once inside your home. Compare that to most solvent or oil based finishes where the fumes will knock you on your butt if you’re not careful, and they often emit odors for weeks or months.

Finish Follows Function

I have an entire chapter in my book called “Finish Follows Function,” and I still think that’s the best way to approach finishing. A kitchen table will see daily abuse from kids, keys, dishes, moisture, heat, cleaning reagents, etc. These are all things a classic film finish will handle fairly well, protecting the wood that lives beneath it. Something like a cutting board has very different needs. We’re not looking for maximum build or scratch resistance because we’re literally going to attack it with a knife. Food-grade mineral oil, pure tung oil, or an oil/wax blend makes more sense because slows down absorption of liquids, won’t flake off, and is easy to renew.

Before choosing a finish, try to identify what the piece actually requires. How will it be used? Where will it be stored? How much abuse will it likely receive? Does the finish need to be repairable? Also think about stuff like VOCs, food contact, color, and sheen. These questions will lead you to a specific finish. If you start your inquiry with the question “Which hardwax oil should I buy?” you’ll potentially deny yourself a chance to discover a more appropriate/superior finish option.

What Happened to Finishing Books?

Writing this article reminded me of two books many of us once considered required reading: Bob Flexner’s Understanding Wood Finishing and Jeff Jewitt’s Taunton’s Complete Guide to Finishing. I can’t help but ask the question: are they still useful to someone who started woodworking in the age of hardwax oils? Man, I sure hope so!

Both books cover topics like surface prep, staining, pore filling, spraying, and reviews of various finish types. They also cover just about every finishing technique under the sun. Those techniques didn’t suddenly stop working just because easier products hit the market. These books teach something a product application tutorial usually doesn’t: how and why finishing works. Once you understand things like how shellac is made, why a film offers more protection than an oil, how dyes and pigments differ, and how oil finishes cure, you’re no longer limited to somebody else’s recipe or the instructions on the back of a can. Both of these books were pivotal in my own finishing education as they went beyond the “what” and fully explained the “how” and “why”.

If there’s a downside to these books, it’s that so much information can be overwhelming. And the option to choose any finish out there can often lead to decisions paralysis. My advice has always been to pick one finishing system and use it repeatedly for a while. After all, it’s better to be good at one finish than mediocre at 20. Now that I think about it, it’s that line of thinking that landed us in this situation in the first place. If someone is getting good results with hardwax oil, why should they bother exploring more complicated options? As you can see, I’m a little conflicted.

But I honestly believe that mastering one finish should only be the start of the journey, not the end. You don’t need to know everything and you should at least know what else is possible in the world of finishing so when a project calls for something different, you know where to look and you know what to do. Flexner and Jewitt are still great places to start.

Maybe My Perspective Is Skewed

When I was learning woodworking, I tried to emulate professional woodworkers and finishers. I read their books, spent time in professional shops, then went home and practiced what I learned. Today, many newer woodworkers are learning online. Their teachers are the people they watch on YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok. People whose jobs include making content, getting views, and promoting products. People like me. Although it’s been a while since I’ve visited a production shop, I suspect traditional, more durable finishes are still being used widely. So why are they becoming less common among hobbyists and small shops? Is it because people stopped emulating the pros, or just that we’ve changed who the “pros” are? I suspect the latter.

I guess I’m hoping that my closeness to the online woodworking community gives me a limited and skewed perspective on what’s actually happening greater woodworking world. Perhaps more folks are using traditional finishes than I realize and maybe this article is blowing this whole thing out of proportion. I would love to be wrong about this. If you have a different perspective, please let me know in the comments.

This is probably a good time to mention that I currently have a working relationship with Natura Onecoat, a hardwax oil I genuinely like and use. So yes, I’m part of the “problem.” But liking Natura doesn’t change the point of this article. It’s an excellent option when its strengths line up with what the project needs. It just isn’t the answer to every finishing problem, and neither is any other finish.

The Skill I Almost Forgot I Had

That bookcase reminded me of something. I had no idea how I finished it 22 years ago. I didn’t know the color or have a recipe to follow. But I had the tools and knowledge to figure it out. That knowledge came from years of screwing things up, doing research, reading books, experimenting in my own shop, and working alongside people who knew far more about finishing than I did.

I don’t need those skills as often anymore, and I’m not giving up hardwax oils. But convenience shouldn’t become the limiter for what we know how to do. Sometimes a project needs shellac. Sometimes lacquer. Sometimes dye, toner, varnish, or something else entirely. And if you’re building for someone else, their needs may lead you somewhere different than your own habits or preferences would.

So don’t hesitate to use hardwax oils when they make sense. Just don’t forget that there are other excellent options out there. And make sure you learn enough about those other options so you’re ready for that inevitable day when your ‘go-to’ finish fails you. That’s when all of this additional finishing knowledge really pays off. It feels good knowing you can troubleshoot just about any finishing challenge that comes your way. When your friends ask you to put a high gloss finish on their dining table, you can confidently say “I can do that!” When your wife says she isn’t happy with the finish on that cutting board you made her, you can offer her some alternatives. And when your neighbor asks if you can help refinish their front door, you can wisely turn down the job but make some solid recommendations on what they should try and who else they should contact to do the work. I might be project here.

But in the end, the goal is to be best looking, most talented finishing hero in your one-person shop. I know I am!

Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, your trusted source for quality woodworking machines and power tools. Whether you’re just getting started or looking for your next upgrade, they’ll help you find the right tools to power your woodworking.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show and get the ad-free version at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

This week, we thank:

• Eric Pellerin

• Peter Kulupka

Sign up for the Wood Talk Newsletter.

What’s on the Bench

• Marc started a repair job for his mother-in-law on a 23-year-old project.

• Matt is working on a workbench base.

• Shannon is doing chest of drawers remediation.

Kickback

• Gary writes in with criticism of the discussion around Shannon’s use of “off the reservation.”

• Michael Johnson writes in to thank the guys for that same discussion and shares why those words carry weight for many Indigenous and First Nations people.

• Anthony from Grey Design Workshop shares his experience using Accoya and Tricoya for exterior cupboard doors in southern England and asks whether the material is easy to get in the US.

Questions

• Jean-Luc Desselle asks whether YouTube subscriber count still matters and whether milestones like 1 million or 500K still mean anything to the guys.

• Tom asks how to cut large, long miters for mitered casework that exceeds 24 inches in width or depth.

• Drew asks about pressing veneer without a vacuum bag, including larger cauls, screw presses, and whether multiple panels can be pressed at the same time.

Links and Resources

• Woodcraft

• Wood Talk Newsletter

• Formaligna Studio

• Grey Design Workshop

• Lumber Update, Modified Woods

• Lumber Update, Accoya

Local Woodcraft Events and Classes

• West Springfield, Massachusetts: August 8, hands-on Festool cordless-tool demo with a factory representative.

• Dayton, Ohio: August 13, free CNC Users Group meeting for CNC owners, new users, and anyone who needs help with Vectric software.

• Minneapolis: August 14 and 15, Mystery Envelope Secret Sale, with chances to save 15% or 20% on a purchase, or 25% on one item.

• Store Classes and Events: Check your local Woodcraft store page.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

I consider tool buying one of the great benefits of being a woodworker. It’s something of a side hobby and a guilty pleasure. Whether you’re scoping out the local flea markets hoping to find old Stanley Bailey #4 in need of some love, or waiting for that shiny new 3HP Sawstop to go on sale at your local Woodcraft, tool lust is something nearly all of us experience at some point. Don’t believe me? Go to Youtube. The most viewed videos are usually spec sheet “algorithm bait” tool reviews. And I can tell you as a content creator myself, my most successful videos are tool reviews and shop tours. People love tools! It’s enough to make you wonder if this little side hobby is threatening to replace the actual hobby.

That said, I completely understand the appeal. Tools are fun. They allow us to do things we just can’t do with our bare hands. Obviously. And in woodworking they allow us to take raw material and transform it into anything our imagination can cook up. If you really think about it, tools can often represent the woodworker we want to become instead of reflecting the woodworker we currently are.

The problem is that new woodworkers often buy tools before they even know what they’ll be building. That seems backwards.

There Is No Universal Starter Shop

New woodworkers often ask me what tools they should buy. Many literally want me to make a list for them. Sometimes, a more established woodworker will ask which tool they should buy next after listing out everything they own. While I try to answer these questions based on what little info I have, I’m usually just taking shots in the dark. As far as I see it, tool choices often come down to three simple variables: budget, space, and the things we plan to build. Most emails don’t include that additional information.

And while all three variables are important, I’d say knowing what you want to build is the most crucial. A person who wants to turn bowls needs a different setup than someone who wants to build boxes. A chair-maker has different tooling needs than a cabinetmaker. And a builder who wants to create a side hustle batching out epoxy charcuterie boards has very different needs than someone making one Maloof rocking chair a year.

That’s why I always say that the project should drive the tool purchase. Unfortunately, many of us do exactly the opposite. We buy a tool, then search for a project that justifies it. And I’m not pointing fingers here as I’m guilty of it too. Sometimes it works out, and sometimes the tool sits in a corner while I eventually come to terms with the fact that I bought a very expensive paper weight.

Story time! Back in 2004, with thick sideburns and a soul patch to match, I found myself craving hand tools. The wise folks in the forums told me Lie-Nielsen was “the best” but I had no budget for that level of tool. So when I saw a LN plane pop up on Ebay for a reasonable price, I snatched it up. The package arrived and I immediately ripped it open, only to be incredibly disappointed. From the pictures in the listing, I assumed this was just another bench plane. After a little research, I realized my mistake: I just bought a scrub plane. If you’re not familiar, a scrub plane is used for heavy stock removal. It’s basically the first plane you use when you’re milling rough lumber. The body is narrow and the blade has a substantial curve so that you can really dig away the shavings. But as the owner of a small second-hand jointer and a lunchbox planer, I had no intention of rough milling boards by hand. I held onto the plane for years in hopes that I’d find a use for it but I eventually sold it. Thankfully, Lie Nielsen tools generally hold their value so I was able to get my money back.

Buy Solutions, Not Possibilities

So what can we do if we want to start making better tool-buying choices? Perhaps we should start by asking ourselves, “What problem does this tool solve?” If you can’t name a problem, it may not be the right time to buy.

That may sound simple, but marketers and influencers make their money selling possibilities and overstating small gains. “Your work is going to be so much better when you use this red square!” “Imagine what you could make with this hand-powered CNC!” “With this 5HP bandsaw, the lumber will practically mill itself!”

Those marketing messages are powerful and the can certainly convince us to buy things we don’t really need. The ads promise a better shop experience and sometimes even a better version of ourselves. That’s getting a little deep, but I think most woodworkers really do want to improve, and tool marketing often suggests that buying the right thing can speed up that process. But if the tool has nothing to do with the work that’s actually in front of you today, you may be buying a solution to a problem you’ll never have. And if you’re upgrading a tool you already own, a small gain may not actually change the final result at all.

Here’s an example of how I think tool buying should go. When my first home needed new flooring, baseboards, and window casing, I had a clear reason to buy a decent miter saw. It not only helped me finish those DIY projects, it also became incredibly useful as I discovered woodworking as a hobby and I used it on countless projects. The project justified the tool. The tool did not have to justify itself by creating projects.

Avoiding Redundancy - Not Just A Hybrid Woodworker’s Problem

In hybrid woodworking, we keep one foot in the power-tool world and the other in the hand-tool world. That gives us plenty of options, but it also creates a potential problem: redundancy.

Using my earlier scrub-plane story as an example, if you already own a jointer and planer, you probably don’t need a scrub plane. If you cut most of your joinery with a table saw and router, you may not need a full set of rip and crosscut saws. If you prepare surfaces with scrapers and sanders, a No. 4 smoothing plane may not offer much benefit.

On the other hand, some hand tools fit perfectly into a power-tool shop because they add an additional degree of control. A shoulder plane can fine-tune a tenon cheek after the table saw does the bulk of the work. A router plane can flatten a dado or rabbet after a machine cuts it. These tools are there to complement your power tools, not necessarily replace them.

Redundant tools waste money and contribute to analysis paralysis. If you have multiple ways to accomplish a task, you can sometimes be frozen with indecision as you try to decide the best way to go about it. Life is often simpler when you have just one good solid solution.

This problem certainly isn’t limited to hybrid woodworkers either. I know hand tool woodworkers that have multiple bench planes that do the same job, each tuned for slightly different action. I also know many power tool junkies that have six routers, each outfitted with a different bit so they don’t have to swap. Whatever your preference, the question remains the same: Does this tool add a useful new capabilities or does it merely give you another way to do something you can already do?

Speaking of hybrid woodworkers, this is where I shamelessly mention my book, Hybrid Woodworking. The book explores how I combine hand tools and power tools for a more harmonious and rewarding experience in the shop, all with a focus on not accumulating tools you don’t really need.

Don’t Wait for the Perfect Shop

New woodworkers often delay building because they think the shop needs to be “complete” first. Bad news, Bubba…the shop will never be complete. After almost 25 years of woodworking, my shop changes as my work, space, interests, and budget evolve. That’s really not a problem, though. A good shop should adapt to the woodworker using it.

Videos and ads often show us large shops filled with every tool imaginable. If that’s your main view into the world of woodworking, it’s easy to assume you need all of that stuff before you can build anything worthwhile. But in my opinion, the smartest tool choices will naturally come as a byproduct of building, not just planning at the keyboard.

And it’s the projects that show you where the real gaps are. Maybe you’re having trouble getting square corners cuts on your casework. It might be time for a track saw. Perhaps your fixed-base router cuts profiles just fine, but now you want to make mortises. It might be time for a plunge router. Or maybe your sander works well, but its built-in dust bag doesn’t. That could justify a shop vac or dedicated dust extractor.

The more projects you get under your belt the better you’ll be at telling the difference between a real need and a tool you simply want. And for the record buying a tool because you want it is perfectly fine. It’s your money. But I do think we should always avoid deluding ourselves into thinking that certain wants are actually needs.

A Tool Problem or a Skill Problem?

New woodworkers often delay building because they think the shop needs to be “complete” first. Bad news, Bubba…the shop will never be complete. After almost 25 years of woodworking, my shop changes as my work, space, interests, and budget evolve. That’s really not a problem, though. A good shop should adapt to the woodworker using it.

Videos and ads often show us large shops filled with every tool imaginable. If that’s your main view into the world of woodworking, it’s easy to assume you need all of that stuff before you can build anything worthwhile. But in my opinion, the smartest tool choices will naturally come as a byproduct of building, not just planning at the keyboard.

And it’s the projects that show you where the real gaps are. Maybe you’re having trouble getting square corners cuts on your casework. It might be time for a track saw. Perhaps your fixed-base router cuts profiles just fine, but now you want to make mortises. It might be time for a plunge router. Or maybe your sander works well, but its built-in dust bag doesn’t. That could justify a shop vac or dedicated dust extractor.

The more projects you get under your belt the better you’ll be at telling the difference between a real need and a tool you simply want. And for the record buying a tool because you want it is perfectly fine. It’s your money. But I do think we should always avoid deluding ourselves into thinking that certain wants are actually needs.

It can be tempting to try to buy your way out of these problems. I’ve done it too many times. A new or upgraded tool feels productive because it appears to offer a shortcut. Why spend all weekend tuning an old bandsaw when you could buy a better one? Well, because the new bandsaw will eventually need tuning too. Even if it cuts perfectly out of the box, blades wear out, guides move, fences shift, and the saw will eventually require calibration. If you avoid learning those skills now, buying a new machine only postpones the inevitable. Embrace your inner Snodgrass!

A Tool-Buying Rule

Hindsight is 20/20, so here’s the advice I wish I would have known from the start: buy tools when a real project creates a need. Of course, if you have the budget and simply want a particular tool, I’m not here to dissuade you. You do you, boo. But if you’re watching your budget and you value your time, this advice will serve you well.

When a project does create a need for a new tool, be sure to research the entire class of tool and not just focus on the current brand darlings of the internet. If you watch video reviews, don’t settle for the first one the algorithm feeds you, unless it’s mine, of course. The videos at the top of the search results aren’t always the most useful. Dig deeper. Some of the best advice will come from people with low subs, poor audio, and ordinary garage/basement shops. These are real people who have spent real time using the tool and they purchased the tool with their own money. Also make sure you’re looking at both the new and used market. eBay and Facebook Marketplace can be hit or miss, but good deals are still out there. And before buying anything, do a quick examination of whether a tool you already own could solve the current problem with a simple modification or a jig.

Even if you follow my advice, you’ll still buy tools you regret. That’s part of learning what kind of woodworker you really are. As your skills grow, your interests and methods will change. Your tool collection will likely change with them. The good news is that this process slows down as you get older, crankier, and more set in your ways. Eventually, you realize that you already own nearly every tool you need. Your true limitations will be the number of hours in the day and an angry sciatic nerve that keeps nagging you.

The goal shouldn’t be to own a picture-perfect state-of-the-art shop. It really should be to learn new skills and build things. If a new tool helps you build something you already intended to make, then buy it. If it only helps you imagine what you might make in the future, it might be better to hold off on the purchase.

Or ignore me. It’s your shop and your money. No matter what you do, make sure you’re having fun.

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Marc and Nicole

Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, your trusted source for quality woodworking machines and power tools. Whether you’re just getting started or looking for your next upgrade, they’ll help you find the right tools to power your woodworking.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

This week, we thank:

• Kenneth Butz

• Zachary Gourde

• Zane Clark

• Dave 4C

• Tyler Aguirre

• Mike at WorkshopFloorplan.com

Sign up for the Wood Talk Newsletter.

What’s on the Bench

• Marc talks about the recent open house, the final stages of the dining table, and the loss of Duggee.

• Matt is rehabbing a bandsaw.

• Shannon is doing some flea market flipping.

Kickback

• Janae writes in after watching episode 609 and hearing Alex Snodgrass talk about bandsaw blades that break at the weld. Less than two hours later, her new-to-her Grizzly bandsaw made a loud pop. Because of the episode, she calmly shut down the saw, confirmed the break happened at the weld, and contacted the manufacturer.

• Kaylin asks why more cordless tool platforms don’t offer AC adapters like Metabo’s 36V line.

• Joshua shares his experience upgrading to a premium Milwaukee cordless set and how much better it has been for drilling, fence work, concrete, mixing mud and paint, and property cleanup.

• We also get a list of Ten Reasons I Hate Marc.

Questions

• Joel Bjornstad asks why chisel work improved so much after moving from the floor to a Roubo-style workbench. Is it posture, physics, or woodworking magic?

• Monte Bell asks how to manage customer expectations when commissioned furniture takes longer than expected.

• Emil built a 6 1/4" thick southern yellow pine workbench top and wants to know how thick a top can be while still working with vises, bench dogs, and holdfasts.

Links and Resources

• Woodcraft

• Wood Talk Newsletter

Local Woodcraft Deals, Events, and Classes

• July Deal: 15% off Crown M42 Cryo Turning Tools.

• July Deal: 40% off WoodRiver Toggle Clamps.

• July Deal: 40% off Brazilian Cherry / Jatoba.

• July Deal: 40% off Padauk.

• July Deal: 40% off Gaboon Ebony turning stock.

• Store Classes and Events: Check your local Woodcraft store page.

• Colorado Springs: Woodturning 101, Amazing Apple Project with Raleigh Lockhart, Saturday, September 12, 2026, 10 AM to 4:30 PM.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

At first, everything seems great. But within seconds, you begin to notice dark patches appearing across the surface like a bad rash (it’s poison ivy season so I know what I’m talking about). Some sections are light and vibrant, and others are dark and muddy. What’s going on?! Well, congratulations. You’ve met blotching (aka splotching).

It happens to just about every woodworker at some point, especially when working with species like cherry, pine, birch, alder, and maple. Fortunately, it isn’t random...it’s predictable. And it’s really not the fault of the finish. Once you understand what causes it, you can make some adjustments that limit the dreaded blotch and make your finishing process much more predictable. In this guide, I’m going to show you How to Prevent Wood Blotching When Staining or Finishing.

Why Wood Blotches in the First Place

The late and great Glen Huey once said, “Cherry blotches......get over it!” There’s a lot of wisdom in that. After all, blotching comes down to the natural properties of the wood and the fact that we’re doing something unnatural to it. So fighting blotch can sometimes be an exercise in futility. While I absolutely agree with the spirit of Glen’s advice, I also think a well-rounded woodworker should know how to produce all kinds of finish results regardless of the species, and that includes making blotch-prone woods look even and consistent.

Wood isn’t a manufactured sheet of perfectly uniform material. It comes from trees that were previously alive with complex biological systems that allowed the tree to survive and grow. What that means for us as woodworkers is that trees are inconsiderate jerks who refuse to organize their fibers according to our finishing schedules.

Even within a single board, you’ll find areas with different densities, grain orientations, and absorption rates. When you apply a finish or stain, the softer or more porous areas absorb more product and become darker. Denser areas absorb less and remain lighter.

Here are a few things that can make the problem worse:

The species

Some woods simply have a reputation for blotching. Cherry, pine, alder, birch, and soft maple are among the most common offenders. That doesn’t mean you should avoid them. It just means you need to plan your finishing strategy accordingly.

Exposed end grain

End grain is significantly more absorbent than face grain. It’s basically a bundle of tiny straws waiting to drink whatever you put on it. Without some preparation, exposed end grain will almost always finish darker than the surrounding surface. And areas of partial end grain such as edge profiles or raised panels can be particularly challenging.

Applying too much finish

Flooding the surface feels productive, and a lot of folks do it, but more finish isn’t necessarily better. On a blotch-prone wood, a heavy application gives the thirsty areas even more material to absorb, making the problem areas even worse.

Stains & Dyes

Stains and dyes contain color particles. So when it comes to uneven absorption, you can bet that stains and dyes will make the blotching even more noticeable than a clear finish. In fact, most woodworkers first experience blotching after applying stain to a blotch-prone wood species.

Prevention

Preventing blotch isn’t binary; it exists on a scale. There are things we can do to tone down blotching. There are things we can do to completely prevent blotching. And there are a lot of solutions or combinations of solutions that will get you somewhere between those two extremes. So here are five blotch control tips that will help you get the finish you’re after.

1: Sand Properly, and Higher

Surface preparation has a major effect on how evenly a wood absorbs finish and stain. Generally speaking, sanding to a higher grit tends to close the pores and decrease absorption. Sanding to a lower grit increases absorption. For most furniture projects, I’ll sand the face grain to 180 grit. That gives me a smooth surface without polishing the wood so much that the finish struggles to penetrate. If I’m using a blotch-prone wood, I’ll usually sand to a higher grit like 220 or 320 to help reduce the overall blotch. And if using a stain, consider the potential drawback of sanding to a higher grit is that the stain color will be less intense.

Because end grain absorbs so aggressively, sanding it to a higher grit can help it behave more like face grain. Try sanding your end grain to at least 320. And if you’re sanding raised panels, make sure you give the raised profile a little extra 320 grit love as that’s a spot that will look particularly bad if the color ends up inconsistent.

Sanding alone won’t totally prevent blotching but it can put you on the right path. Remember, it’s on a scale and sanding properly and selectively is where the process begins.

By the way, one of the best ways to sand complex profiles by hand is to use sheets of our ​Backside Sandpaper​. It’s available all the way up to 400 grit and features sanding grit on both sides, giving you the grip you need to conform to various shapes. Highly recommended!

2: Inspect the Surface With Water

Before applying your finish, wipe the surface with water. This does two things. It will give you a preview of what the surface will look like with finish, making high absorption areas more obvious. This can help you decide if you need to take further blotch prevention steps or if you can proceed with your finish.

The water will also raise the grain. That means that once the water dries, you should feel a rough texture on the surface. While there are strategic reasons for doing this, especially if using water-based finishing products, there’s really no huge benefit for blotching. Except for the fact that it requires you to give the surface one final light sanding with your highest grit, making sure your surface is sanded as evenly as possible.

This process can also reveal glue spots and scratches, giving you one last opportunity to resolve them before finishing.

3: Consider a Thin Seal Coat

A thin coat of finish can often help reduce blotching. The key is to apply very little material so there’s no opportunity for heavy absorption. Once that coat dries, the wood fibers are sealed, or at least well on their way to being sealed. So when you proceed with additional coats, the overall absorption will be fairly light and the blotching should be reduced.

A classic sealer is dewaxed shellac. It dries quickly and is compatible with most topcoats. A light coat, often around a 1-pound cut or even lighter, partially seals the wood without building a heavy film. You can actually buy this stuff pre-mixed in the form of Zinsser Bullseye Seal Coat. Keep in mind, you’re not trying to encapsulate the wood in shellac. You’re simply reducing the difference between the most absorbent and least absorbent areas.

For more information on this process, check out this demonstration:

After applying the seal coat, let it dry and lightly scuff-sand the surface. Be careful around edges and corners because it’s very easy to sand through the shellac in those areas.

One thing to keep in mind is that while shellac can be incredibly effective at preventing blotch, it can also prevent your stain from absorbing. So the more the surface is sealed, the less intense your color will be. This is why test boards are absolutely essential.

4: Consider a Pre-Stain Conditioner

An alternative to a shellac seal coat is a purpose-made pre-stain conditioner. Most home centers sell this stuff in various forms as a universal cure for blotching. Unlike with shellac where we let the material cure before applying our finish or stain, these products are intended to be used right before you apply your finish. The theory is that it pre-fills the most absorbent areas giving you a more overall finish absorption across the surface. The truth is, I’ve had mixed results. In some cases they can be effective but they also suffer from the same problem as shellac where you can often end up with a stain color that’s lighter than desired.

The good news is, there’s a pre-conditioner that performs better than the ones mentioned above, doesn’t lighten the color too much, and you can make it in your own shop. I call it “Marc Juice”.

Years ago, I published an article called ​Blotch Control to Rule Them All​ featuring a dedicated blotch-control formula developed by another late and great woodworker, Charles Neil. His formula worked better than anything I tried at the time, but since his passing, the product is no longer available. So I decided to try to replicate the recipe and shared my results in this video:

5: Apply Oil Products in Thin Coats

If your finish of choice is an oil or an oil-based product, you’ll want to exercise restraint. So many people apply oil products by flooding the surface and that generally does three things: promotes curing issues, wastes finish, and intensifies blotch. There’s very little (if any) tangible benefit.

So whether you’re using pure tung oil, oil-based stain, Danish oil, an oil-varnish blend, or a hardwax oil, restraint is your friend. A little goes a long way. Most of these products can be applied in the same way:

• Apply a thin, even coat.

• Give the finish the recommended amount of time to penetrate.

• Wipe off all the excess.

And when I say wipe off the excess, I mean wipe it off. The surface shouldn’t remain wet, gummy, or covered in shiny puddles. Any finish sitting on top of the wood is a candidate for slow curing, uneven sheen, dust collection, and finishing misery.

Hardwax oils such as Natura OneCoat, Rubio Monocoat, Osmo Polyx-Oil, and similar products are especially sensitive to over-application. These finishes are designed to be spread very thinly. Using more product doesn’t give you more protection. It mostly gives you more product to remove. Here’s a video you might be interested in where I tested a bunch of different hardwax oil finishes:

The Most Important Step: Make Samples

Before finishing the actual project, reproduce your complete finishing schedule on scrap from the project. If you want to use shellac or a pre-conditioner, test different dilutions, coating times, and concentrations of ingredients if you’re making your own. Experiment with different sanding grits. Try different stains and finishes and in various combinations.

Ultimately, there’s no silver bullet for blotch control and getting good results truly comes down to experience, knowing how each wood responds to various products will give you a toolbox of solutions to just about any finishing problem you come across.

Want to Get More Comfortable With Finishing?

Finishing is one of the areas where woodworkers tend to have the least confidence, even though it makes the biggest visual difference in the final project. The Guild’s ​Simple Varnish Finish​ technique course covers surface preparation, wiping-varnish application, oil-varnish blends, pore filling, oily woods, rubbing out the finish, and other practical strategies for getting repeatable results.

You can also download my book, ​Finishing: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over​, for a no-nonsense breakdown of oil, varnish, shellac, application methods, common finishing mistakes, and how to fix them.

For even more finishing information backed by actual experience, browse the complete ​Wood Whisperer Finishing Archive​.

Happy finishing!

Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, your trusted source for quality woodworking machines and power tools. Whether you’re just getting started or looking for your next upgrade, they’ll help you find the right tools to power your woodworking.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

This week, we thank:

• Blakey Lake

• Tommy Evans

• Tom Krush

• Rocky Smith

• Scott MacIntyre

• Alexander H, Sanyo

What’s on the Bench

• Marc cut the big bevels on the table legs before heading out on vacation and is prepping the shop so it’s not awful to come back to.

• Matt is working on a coffee table commission.

• Shannon made a cheese slicer, because Woodcraft told him to.

Kickback

• Michael Summer shares his experience with Mike Farrington’s sanding disc, especially the benefits of the taper, the clean edge it produces, and the ability to keep two grits loaded.

• Freddie also writes in about the Mike Farrington double-taper sanding disc and says it’s fantastic for casework, glue lines, sheet goods, cabinet parts, and sneaking up on final dimensions.

Questions

• Davie Brown asks whether using Blade Cote on a SawStop blade could cause problems with the brake system or electronics.

• Rich asks how the guys’ design sensibilities have changed over the years and whether Matt has found a new kind of figure to fancy.

• Ed Lilla asks how a left-handed woodworker should think about bench workholding and vise placement.

Links and Resources

• Woodcraft

Local Woodcraft Events and Classes

• Free Demo, Stay Sharp: Saturday, July 11 at 1pm.

• Free Demo, Dust Collection Basics, Machinery and Accessories: Saturday, July 18 at 1pm.

• Store Classes and Events: For in-store classes and events, please check your local Woodcraft store page.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

We’re recording live at the Woodcraft Vendor Trade Show in Louisville, Kentucky, which means this is the first face-to-face Wood Talk recording in years.

Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, the leading authority in woodworking, making, and creating. They have the tools, supplies, expertise, and hands-on classes to inspire creativity at every level.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

What’s on the Bench

This week, the bench is all Alex.

• We talk about how the Next Cut Tour is going.

• We ask why Alex became so closely associated with bandsaws.

• We discuss whether the world has enough bandsaw reindeer yet.

• We get into small-shop and startup bandsaw setup advice.

Questions for Alex

• Matt Parker asks how old Alex was when he first grew that glorious mustache.

• Tom asks how to deal with a 14" Powermatic bandsaw with a riser kit that refuses to track straight.

• Greg Batt asks whether upgrading a common 14" bandsaw from a 1 HP motor to a 2 HP motor is worth the cost and effort.

• Joe Lapolito asks how often a hobbyist needs to go through Alex’s full bandsaw setup process once the machine has been dialed in.

• Martin asks how to clean the blade and machine after cutting wet wood.

• We also ask why Carter guides over blocks or other bearing guides.

• And when a bandsaw blade breaks, what’s the first thing to check?

Links and Resources

• Alex Snodgrass, The Next Cut Tour

Local Woodcraft Events and Classes

• Minneapolis: Summer Lumber Deal runs through June 20. Get a $20 gift card with a $100 lumber purchase.

• Minneapolis: Free Bandsaw Tune Up demo, Saturday, June 20 at 1pm.

• Boise: 3 Stone Cairn Lamp class.

• Greenville: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin class.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Wood Talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft, the leading authority in woodworking, making, and creating. They have the tools, supplies, expertise, and hands-on classes to inspire creativity at every level.

Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise. Cannot be combined with other offers, exclusions apply.

The show is also supported by the generous contributions of our patrons. You can support the show at Patreon.com/woodtalk.

This week, we thank:

• David Dahl

• CoreyK

Kickback

• Rich Harwood follows up on the aluminum WoodRiver straight edges and how he uses them in the shop. He keeps a Starrett steel straight edge as his protected reference tool and uses it to verify that the cheaper straight edges are still within tolerance.

Standout Companies and Products

We saw a lot of great products and talked to a lot of great companies, so we can’t cover everything. But a few of the standouts include:

• MicroJig

• SawStop

• Kreg, including the Edge Joiner and upcoming trim router

• Oliver

• Izzy Swan and Swan Tools

• Old Masters

• WoodRiver

• Walrus Oil

• Easy Wood Tools

• Carbon Method

• Grit Grip

• JessEm

• Temple Tools

• Powermatic

Links and Resources

• Woodcraft

Local Woodcraft Events and Classes

• Minneapolis: Summer Lumber Deal runs through June 20. Get a $20 gift card with a $100 lumber purchase.

• Minneapolis: Free Bandsaw Tune Up demo, Saturday, June 20 at 1pm.

• Boise: 3 Stone Cairn Lamp class.

• Greenville: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin class.

Contact the Show

Send questions at woodtalkshow.com, find us on Instagram at @woodtalkshow, or send us a voicemail using your phone to woodtalkshow@gmail.com.

You can find the guys individually on Instagram at @mattcremona, @woodwhisperer, and @renaissancewoodworker.

Thanks to Todd and Margaret.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Wood talk is proudly sponsored by Woodcraft! Use code WT2026 for 10% off regularly priced merchandise, can’t be combined with other offers, exclusions apply

If you want to help support the show, you can do so by going to Patreon.com/woodtalk and signing up to become a patron of the show. We’d like to thank: Joe Clauss and Paul O’Hare

What’s on the Bench?

• Marc: A little more work on the table. Bought the walnut. $1600 in and I haven’t even cut the wood yet.

• Matt: Breakfast table launch and Epoxy coffee table

• Shannon: helping a student with dovetails

KICKBACK

• Ryan had a great experience at a Woodcraft swap meet.

• Larry has a suggestion for a plane that helps with inside corners.

Questions

Lisa wants to know if she should buy a straight edge: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-stainless-steel-cabinetmarkers-rule

Azeem has three questions related to UV color changing wood, Osmo use, and jointing an edge.

Resource: https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/aging-wood-with-baking-soda/

Woodcraft Happenings

A few stores, including Spokane, Seattle, and Denver, are hosting either a Summer Clearance Event or a 15% Off Sale over the weekend of June 13th and 14th.

In Seattle and Denver, the first 25 customers to spend $25 on clearance items will receive a free Pinnacle marking and measuring tool.

There are also some interesting classes coming up around the country.

• Sacramento has a Thor’s Hammer class, where students shape a wooden hammerhead on the table saw and turn a custom handle on the lathe.

• St. Louis, Indianapolis, and Nashville have the Drunken Cutting Board class, which uses a bandsaw technique to create that wavy checkerboard pattern.

• Greenville has a Celtic Knot Rolling Pin class, with both youth and adult sessions.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Our show is also sponsored by the generous contributions of people like you! Thank you!

If you want to help support the show, you can do so by going to Patreon.com/woodtalk and signing up to become a patron of the show. We’d like to thank

Almost Perfection

What’s on the Bench? 

Marc: Started MCM table for friend of his

Matt: Finished the breakfast nook

Shannon: teaching sawing and chiseling

KICKBACK

Jeremy - Has some thoughts on losing a job and relying on the shop.

Bryan - Tells us his thought process behind using toothpicks.

Paul - I was wondering since Mother’s Day is so close and I’m not ready for it if you could put it off a couple of weeks so I have time to make a picture frame for my wife.

Questions!

David - I use the Jessem Table Saw guides and noticed Marc uses them also. I find that using a push stick with them isn't easy. The only one I find useful are the long stick type that is included with table saws. Which push stick do you use with the Jessem guides.

https://www.kqzyfj.com/click-101642234-13817089?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodcraft.com%2Fproducts%2Fjessem-rip-stick-for-ts-and-sts-stock-guides%3Fvariant%3D47228246360202&cjsku=196955

Brandon - Over the years, I've made many things I've eventually been proud of, but it seems like with every project, no matter how hard I try, no matter how careful I am, no matter how much planning I do, I mess up something smallish that I didn't need to. Examples (feel free to edit): I'll cut dados for shelves, and all but one of them will be nice and tight, but one of them will be a tiny bit oversized and have a visible gap. I'll carefully clamp pieces of a lumber cart together while gluing-and-screwing it, only to realize that one of the shelves is noticeably crooked when I finish. I'll drop a piece off the table saw or workbench, denting a corner that really needed to be crisp and sharp. I'll go to put my name on something with either my iron or my laser, but the placement will be slightly off or the iron will be too hot. Etc. Etc. Etc. Something like this seems to happen on almost every project. Sometimes it's my fault, sometimes it's just a random accident.

My question for you guys is this: When/how do you determine when a mistake/accident/major screw-up is significant enough to warrant repair vs. redoing vs. just giving up? Do you have a rule for your own work for when you ignore a mistake and just keep going, or are you all so awesome that a question about mistakes is alien to you? 

Silas - I love listening to the show I'm a teenager worker.I've only been woodworking for around a year now.I have a small job site table saw and a small lunchbox.Plainer , that's really it , I'm hoping soon to start building a small shed for my workshop.It will only be around sixteen by twelve I Want to know If you guys have any ideas on storage or anything, I'd love to hear like I said, I'm a beginner so I don't know that much.

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Sponsored by :

Use code WT2026 for 10% off - Exclusions apply.

What's On the Bench

• Marc did some finish tests and packed up a bunch of boxes of Preppin' Weapons.

• Matt installed the breakfast bench.

• Shannon did a french polish on a ring box.

Kickback and Stuff

• Von has now listened to all the show and he tells us what all the people in his life thought about this feat.

• Joel took our advice and bought a planer and thanks to a deal on Amazon got a DW735 with extension beds and extra knives for less than the list price of the planer.

• Wayne reponded to our inquiry about sanding at the table saw and he uses the Mike Farrington disc with a 10 degree taper.

Listener Questions

• Hamilton asks about getting into the shop when going through tough times.

• Mike has a White Oak log sawn into boards with his new Roubo bench and asks about building it green vs letting the wood dry a bit.

• Steven is building a painted wall light box that has an oil spill on the plywood. He asks about cleaning it up vs just getting new plywood.

Selected Woodcraft Events

Store Specific Events:

• Mother’s Day Street Market – May 2nd , 9am-2pm – Greenville, SC

• Meet local Makers & Creatives showcasing their skills and treasures.

Classes

Atlanta, GA: Mother’s Week Classes – May 2nd-7th

• Bud Vase, Colorful Coasters, Small Bowl, Sushi Set

Ask Us a Question

Our questions primarily come from our generous Patrons. You can also send in questions via the contact form. Or you can hit us up on Instagram at woodtalkshow. And you can even send us an email or voicemail at woodtalkshow@gmail.com

Finally you can find us individually on Instagram at mattcremona, woodwhisperer, and renaissancewoodworker

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Sponsored by :

Use code WT2026 for 10% off - Exclusions apply.

What's On the Bench

• Marc only sells merch now, no more content so get your preppin' weapons and glue rollers at TWWStore.com

• Matt finished the breakfast table and has moved on to the bench seat.

• Shannon is struggling with the accuracy OCD that comes with industrial machines.

Kickback and Stuff

• Laura is heading up an exhibition of local woodworker's projects at the San Carlos, CA Woodcraft store. For details check out the Bay Area Woodworkers.

• Darren has had success bleaching turnings and wonders if this would be an option for keeping the natural white oak tone we talked about recently.

• Harold proposed and she said yes! While sitting in cool rocking chairs.

Listener Questions

• Doug has questions about using epoxy to fill voids in Cherry for a table top.

• Bryan pegged some tenons with toothpicks and those picks have backed out 3/16".

• Bryan took the Alex Snodgrass class and asks for an unsponsored review on Carter bandsaw guides.

Selected Woodcraft Events

Store Specific Events:

• Tool Swap – Sunday April 26th 8am to 1pm – Sacramento, CA

• Find great deals on lumber, used tools, and other woodworking items. Or

• bring yours to swap!

Classes

• Columbus, OH

• Build a concert Ukulele – April 25th & 26th 3pm - 9pm

Alex Snodgrass Tour Stops in April

https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/alex-snodgrass-the-next-cut-tour

• Grand Rapids, MI

• Sterling Heights, MI

• Columbus, OH

• Cincinnati, OH

Ask Us a Question

Our questions primarily come from our generous Patrons. You can also send in questions via the contact form. Or you can hit us up on Instagram at woodtalkshow. And you can even send us an email or voicemail at woodtalkshow@gmail.com

Finally you can find us individually on Instagram at mattcremona, woodwhisperer, and renaissancewoodworker

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Sponsored by :

Use code WT2026 for 10% off - Exclusions apply.

What's On the Bench

• Marc finished the book press.

• Matt is applying finish to the breakfast table.

• Shannon taught a bunch of 7th graders how to build stuff.

Kickback and Stuff

• Andy responds to our "what is the legends had modern tools and YouTube" by saying that it might get ugly considering Jame Krenov was known to have called Sam Maloof a "router jockey".

• John asks if any of us compete on our bikes or just ride for fun and leisure.

Listener Questions

• Tech Support asks if any of us avoid sharpening certain tools.

• Matt asks how we manage extra footage when filming in order to get through loads of clips more efficiently.

• Andy wants to make a pole lathe due to his limited space and asks Shannon what he would recommend or do differently from his own lathe builds.

Selected Woodcraft Events

• April 10th - 13th Spring Shavings Sale (15% off STOREWIDE)

Store Specific Events:

• Tool Sale – Saturday April 4th 9am to 3pm – Richmond, VA

• Richmond Antique Tool Society will have a great selection of antique and

• vintage tools for sale. Also, demonstrations and assistance on repairing and sharpening so bring your old hand planes and chisels!

• ▪ https://www.richmondantiquetools.com/

Classes

• Rockville, MD

• Kids Workshop – Candy Dispenser – April 18th 2pm-4pm

• Teens Workshop - Outdoor Planter - April 19th 10am - 5 pm

• Boise, ID

• Tusk Tenon Wall Shelf – April 9th 4:30pm - 9pm

• Kansas City, KS

• Square Edge Bowl – April 12th 12pm-4pm

Ask Us a Question

Our questions primarily come from our generous Patrons. You can also send in questions via the contact form. Or you can hit us up on Instagram at woodtalkshow. And you can even send us an email or voicemail at woodtalkshow@gmail.com

Finally you can find us individually on Instagram at mattcremona, woodwhisperer, and renaissancewoodworker

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Sponsored by :

Use code WT2025 for 10% off - Exclusions apply.

What's On the Bench

• Marc made some fancy Walnut garage steps.

• Matt is working on the breakfast table.

• Shannon is prepping parts for a middle school class project on Bluebird boxes.

We Did Podcasts

All 3 of us cheated on WoodTalk and appeared on another podcast. Well Shannon didn't, he just hosts another one is a constant dirty cheater

• Matt was on the Woodturners Journey

• Marc was on the Modern Woodworkers Podcast

• Shannon hosts The Lumber Update Podcast always...the cheater

Kickback and Stuff

• Greg asks If Maloof, Nakashima, Krenov, Frid, and Carpenter had access to modern tools, like CAD, the Festool Domino, and digital conveniences, do you think their work would have been even better, or just different? And in this digital era, would they be revered legends still, or just another set of woodworkers on YouTube?

Listener Questions

• Yukiki is leading a class on picture frames and asks about a fast drying finish that will allow her students to complete finishing by the end of the class.

• Tony's feet hurt and he asks what we put on the floor of our shops in the way of mats.

• David bought some bench chisels at Woodcraft and asks about the other types of chisels and why he would want and use them.

Selected Woodcraft Events

Store Specific Events:

• March Mania – March 14 & 15 – Parkersburg, WV, Cincinnati, OH, Roanoke, VA: 15% Off Almost Everything and Demos all day

Demos

• Table Saw Tune-Up - Saturday, March 14th, 1pm

• Keeping your table saw in top working order makes your project easier and safer. Stop in as we show you how!

• Joinery Jigs - Saturday, March 21st, 1pm

• A couple of boards and some nails might work, but they may not be the best solution to keeping your project in one piece. Join us as we review different types of joinery jigs to help you build a strong finished piece.

Classes

• Rockville, MD: Teens Workshop – Bandsaw Box - Sunday, March 15, 10 AM - 5 PM

• Richmond, VA: Marquetry: Cutting, Assembly, And Veneer Fundamentals - Saturday, March 7, 9 AM - 3:30 PM

• Chattanoga, TN: A variety of Jess Crow Resin classes from March 6th through March 10th

Ask Us a Question

Our questions primarily come from our generous Patrons. You can also send in questions via the contact form. Or you can hit us up on Instagram at woodtalkshow. And you can even send us an email or voicemail at woodtalkshow@gmail.com

Finally you can find us individually on Instagram at mattcremona, woodwhisperer, and renaissancewoodworker

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Most people would call it an assault on the eardrums. I was mesmerized.

Suddenly I wasn’t in Joe’s bedroom anymore. I was on a stage. Tommy Lee was in front of me, Vince Neil was belting out Girls, Girls, Girls, and somehow I belonged there. If you don’t like Mötley Crüe, get your own fantasy!

That moment stuck with me. It was a turning point. I realized I didn’t just want to watch music happen. I wanted to be part of it.

Making It Work

Luckily, I had musicians in the family. My step-dad was in a country music band and I had a few uncles that had extra equipment laying around. Before long, an old drum set that had been collecting dust in an attic made its way into my basement. It was incomplete, mismatched, and missing hardware.

No tom mounts? No problem.

Using some of my Jersey ingenuity, I threw a ladder over a couple of garbage cans and dropped the toms between the rungs. A little rope, some wire, questionable engineering decisions, and boom, a mostly operational drum kit. I wish I had a picture of it. It was ridiculous. But it worked. I started teaching myself how to play.

Looking back, I’m amazed my mom allowed it. Acoustic drums in a basement are not subtle. And we lived in a small house in Trenton, NJ with no insulation between the basement and main floor with neighbors in close proximity. Sound just went right through ceiling and walls. But Mom always said she liked hearing it because it meant I was home and safe. As a parent now, I understand that in a way I couldn’t back then.

The Magic of a Jam Session

Not long after, I found a few friends at school and we started playing together. We weren’t good. We never would be. But that wasn’t the point.

If you’ve never played an instrument, here’s something you might not realize: there’s a huge difference between playing music you’ve memorized (or read) and creating something together in real time.

A jam session usually starts small. A guitarist plays a few chords. The bass player finds a groove underneath it. The drummer listens for the pulse and locks it in. Everyone is playing their own part, but they’re also constantly listening, adjusting, reacting.

It’s creative tension and cooperation happening simultaneously. When it clicks, it’s electric. You’re interpreting someone else’s intention in real time. You’re offering your own ideas without overpowering the whole. You’re building something none of you would have created alone.

That feeling is hard to describe. But when you experience it, you chase it.

The Woodworking Version

Years later, I realized I’ve been chasing that same feeling in the shop. I don’t think we talk enough about collaboration in woodworking. A lot of designers operate solo. And that makes sense. Designing is personal. It’s vulnerable. It’s easy to want full ownership of the idea. But that’s rarely my approach.

I consider myself an average designer. Most of what I create is derivative in some way, influenced by the thousands of pieces I’ve studied and the countless woodworkers I’ve learned from over the years. So why would I pretend my ideas spring from a vacuum? If anything, I want input.

Not from just anyone, of course. I’m selective. I trust experience. I value thoughtful critique over unsolicited opinion. And I care deeply about aesthetic alignment. But when I find the right collaborator, magic happens.

My SketchUp Jam Partner

One of those collaborators has been Brian Benham. For years, Brian helped bring Wood Whisperer designs to life. He created plans, built SketchUp models, and contributed to the design credit on many Guild projects. If you’ve taken a Guild course, you’ve seen his fingerprints. Brian even has several courses in the Guild including one on designing in Sketchup.

Here’s how it usually works. I send Brian everything I have, measurements, constraints, angles, reference photos, and my very imperfect SketchUp model. I’m competent enough in SketchUp to get things 50 to 60 percent there. An approximation, but not refined.

Then we hop on Zoom. Brian opens SketchUp and shares his screen. And this is where it feels exactly like a jam session.

I’ll say, “What if we soften that curve?” He draws it instantly.
“What if that leg tapers a little more aggressively?” Done.
“Can we see what it looks like with a different angle?” On the screen in seconds.

But he’s not just drafting my ideas. He’s reacting. Suggesting. Improving.

“Have you considered lowering the rail?”
“That proportion feels heavy.”
“What if we echoed that angle here?”

Back and forth. No ego. No defensiveness. Just exploration.

I’ve done this with Brian 20 or 30 times over the years. Just recently, we did a quick consult on a table I’m building for my buddy Jason. The concept wasn’t fully formed, but after an hour of jamming, it was clear enough to move confidently into prototypes and shop work.

That’s the payoff. Before a single board is cut, the design is stronger.

Why This Matters

Collaboration does a few powerful things:

• It confirms good instincts

• It exposes weak ones

• It prevents expensive mistakes

• It accelerates refinement

• It pushes you beyond your default thinking

Most importantly, it reminds you that woodworking doesn’t have to be a solitary pursuit.

We romanticize the lone craftsman. But historically, workshops were collaborative spaces. Apprentices, masters, peers, all working, observing, critiquing. The modern version might just be Zoom and SketchUp (or your software of choice).

Try Your Own Jam Session

I don’t know what kind of access you have to other woodworkers. Maybe it’s a friend at the local woodworking club. Maybe it’s someone in the Wood Whisperer Guild. Maybe it’s me and you’ve hired me for a consultation.

But if you ever get the chance to “jam” on a design together, take it. Share your rough sketch. Share your half-baked idea. Get on a call. Let someone else poke at it. With the right person, it’s exhilarating. Two minds exploring what-ifs. Throwing out ideas. Refining proportions. Building something neither of you would have created alone.

Maybe someday I’ll reach a point where I don’t want outside input. Maybe I’ll be so confident that another opinion would only muddy the water. But I doubt it. Because for me, woodworking isn’t just about building furniture. It’s about making something better than my last project and constantly trying to fill gaps in my woodworking education. Other people with unique perspectives and backgrounds are a great cheat code for achieving that goal.

And that’s music to my ears!

Read more

Sponsored by :

Use code WT2025 for 10% off - Exclusions apply.

What's On the Bench

• Marc is cutting really big tenons.

• Matt is wrapping up his breakfast bench build for the Guild.

• Shannon wants to buy a pneumatic elevator and bought caning supplies.

Kickback and Stuff

• Lee from Regal Street Woodworks writes in to explain his end grain jointing process.

• David shares a tale of changed shorts when jointing end grain turned a cookie into a frisbee.

• Luke built a weekend project using "wisdom" from all 3 of us...but mostly his newly honed sharpening skills gained from a class at his local Woodcraft store.

Listener Questions

• Nate asks us to list some design resources after our discussion about how design isn't covered much in woodworking.

• Dave is trying to make a bowl without a lathe using a hole saw and asks for advice to keep his bowl from flying across the shop.

• Tyler is tempted by used hand saws and asks whether to sharpen himself or send off to an expert.

Selected Woodcraft Events

Store Specific Events:

• March Mania – March 14 & 15 – Parkersburg, WV, Cincinnati, OH, Roanoke, VA,

• 15% Off Almost Everything and Demos all day

• Local Store Anniversary Celebration – March 7th – Rochester, NY

• Demos, Food, Giveaways, Special Sales

Demos

• Table Saw Tune-Up - Saturday, March 14th, 1pm

• Keeping your table saw in top working order makes your project easier and safer. Stop in as we show you how!

• Joinery Jigs - Saturday, March 21st, 1pm

• A couple of boards and some nails might work, but they may not be the best solution to keeping your project in one piece. Join us as we review different types of joinery jigs to help you build a strong finished piece.

Ask Us a Question

Our questions primarily come from our generous Patrons. You can also send in questions via the contact form. Or you can hit us up on Instagram at woodtalkshow. And you can even send us an email or voicemail at woodtalkshow@gmail.com

Finally you can find us individually on Instagram at mattcremona, woodwhisperer, and renaissancewoodworker

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.